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Saturday, July 26, 2003

Mole in the Hole

by Karyn Zoldan


Just ate breakfast at the Cup Café in the historic Hotel Congress in quaint but unfashionable downtown Tucson. For three consecutive years IHOP has been voted best breakfast according to the Arizona Daily Star. Sometimes there’s no accounting for taste in this town but fortunately this gem of a place has been discovered and inhabited by the hip and hungry.

For starters the coffee is a very good house blend roasted by a popular local roaster, Arbuckles. Most of the breakfast joints serve hateful coffee so finding a joint with great coffee is always a boom. A tiny pitcher of half and half accompanies coffee. And if the house blend doesn’t do it – you can always opt for a cowboy coffee, the house blend with a shot of espresso.

The usual eggs and bacon have been stripped of their mundane-ness and anointed with quality ingredients. I opted for the mole in the hole ($4). Take one fried egg and place it dead center in your choice of bread – I chose marble rye. Cover with the most delicious roasted red potatoes and top with your choice of melted cheese. Yum. It’s filling. The potatoes were particularly spicy but unfortunately my over medium egg was more like over hard. I would’ve liked a little play of runny yolk to schmoosh around the plate for potatoes and bread dunking. Next time I’ll order the eggs over easy. Proactively thoughtful, hot sauce and ketchup are brought along with the meal.

Sit inside for a clubby atmosphere or outside under the shaded awning. Pssst. Maybe we can keep this our little secret after all.

Cup Café
Hotel Congress
311 E. Congress Street
Tucson, AZ 85701
520-622-8848

Thursday, July 24, 2003

Seoul Food


By Karyn Zoldan


Ah, the smell of grilling meats greeted me at the entrance. It had been a few years since Korean food has seared my multi-ethnic-loving palate and I was ready to taste its many splendored earthy flavors again.

At Takamatsu, you can choose from the Korean BBQ room, the sushi bar area, and the teppan yaki room where a chef will slice and dice and cook your food a la Japanese dinner theatre style. We opted for door number one – Korean BBQ and it appeared to be the most popular choice--- by 6 p.m. on a Saturday night the joint was jumping with groups of diners and the sounds of sizzling meats.

This is not a date place in the romantic sense. It’s probably good for couples who don’t have much to say over dinner because the food preparation can keep them fairly occupied. It’s great for families and friends who talk loudly or get somewhat boisterous because noises vibrate around the hard surfaces.

Being the princess that I sometimes am, my three friends were taken aback when I announced that we wanted to grill our meats at the table. Our server said the chef was happy to grill the meats in the kitchen but I insisted that we wanted the total experience.

For starters we ordered three appetizers—and waited 25 minutes for the first one to debut. I chalked it up to the surge of people who entered all at once forcing a queue out to the parking lot. Finally the gyoza ($4.95), steamed dumplings filled with beef and vegetables, appeared. The serving dish leaned precariously every time I tried to dip a dumpling in sauce. Elizabeth thought the yakatori ($5.50), three index finger-size chicken and vegetable skewers, skimpy.

Another server tried to light our tabletop BBQ but when we ordered the entrees, I specifically requested not to be rushed and had yet to receive our third appetizer. There was a parade of people waiting on us but none knew the whereabouts of sashimi ($10.95). The original server came to the table and apologized for forgetting the sashimi and asked if we still wanted it; yes, we did. Another server returned determined to light the BBQ.

The 10-piece chef’s choice sashimi appetizer was worth waiting for—fresh, thick slices of hamachi, maguro, salmon, and crab—and then devoured just as the platter of bulgogi ($13.95) thinly-sliced marinated beef arrived.

With our limited experience of how to proceed, a server cut the beef, the marinating chicken ($10.95) and an enormous white onion into smaller pieces using a kitchen scissors; then she showed us how to cook. All was accomplished at warped speed. Luckily Scarlett was in a good mood and wearing black as she got splattered with meat marinade. Overhead exhaust hoods on individual tables squelched excessive smokiness.

Rice bowls and a stack of red lettuce leaves crowded onto the table along with eight side dishes. When I think of side dishes, I think of mashed potatoes, baked potatoes, rice and beans, creamed corn, green beans, baked beans, buttery carrots, applesauce. Here the side dishes were more like condiments or variations of kimchee.

We didn’t know what most of them were. Upon asking our server, she pointed to the reddish ones saying they were hot. Seth had a brilliant marketing idea. He thought the side dishes should be photographed and laminated much like some sushi menus so uninitiated diners would know more about what they were eating; however, not knowing didn’t cause us any pause. We tasted everything—raw, blanched, or slightly cooked vegetables seasoned with soy, vinegar, garlic, and chiles. We deftly wrapped bits of grilled meats, rice, and condiments into the red lettuce leave envelopes perhaps the answer to a Korean burrito.

During our feeding frenzy, the seafood and green onion pancake (haemul pa jeon $13.95) was delivered. Scarlett declared it a cross between the best of a frittata and pizza. Round like a pizza and cut in slices, the delicate consistency of the seafood proved to be our favorite but the proposed pancake dipping sauce was too salty for my taste buds.

Last and least liked were stir-fried sweet potato noodles with vegetables and beef (jap chae $10.95). Surprisingly we all envisioned delicate orange noodles but instead a brown mountain of slippery cellophane noodles flecked with slivers of carrot and mushrooms and minimal bits of beef sat in a darker brown sauce.

Although our iced teas were replenished frequently, we had to request forks for the chopstick-challenged and more than once asked and waited for additional napkins as this was a delightfully messy meal. Service was mostly satisfactory but the pacing rushed and sometimes abrupt. Four of us were seated at a cooking table for six and with all the platters and side dishes, tabletop space was crunched.

For dessert the cold and creaminess of tempura-fried ice cream oozing whipped cream contrasted with the saltiness and spiciness of our meal. Kitchen scissors left at the table came in handy for snipping at the batter. More restaurants should offer kitchen scissors in order to encourage sharing.

I will return to taste the many intriguing varieties of roll sushi (Tucson roll, 9-1-1 roll, S.O.S. roll). I’ll let the kitchen cook my dinner in its entirety and may order a seafood pancake with a side of spicy chili paste or wasabi and soy sauce instead.

Matshikgay moni desey yo! (Enjoy and eat plenty at Takamatsu.)





Takamatsu
5532 E. Speedway in Tucson, AZ (520) 512-0800

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